The Building of a C19 page
1,
page 1,
page 2.
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LOA:
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19' 2"
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5,85 m
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Max. Beam:
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8'
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2,44 m
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Hull draft at DWL:
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8"
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20 cm
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Displacement DWL:
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1,900
lbs
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760 kg
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PPI at DWL:
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425 lbs
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170 kg
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Hull weight:
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1,200 lbs.
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480 kg
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Fuel:
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60
gallons
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240
liters
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HP
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90
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max 150
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Material:
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Stitch & Glue
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.
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Building the Model.
I started this project with the purchase of the plans from the website
www.bateau.com
I wasn't ready to start building the real thing so I built a model, it proved a
very worthwhile exercise.
I have been informed by other boat builders that the model I has a
droopy bow, they tell me that's
a good reason to use the bow mould when building, I will be.
Getting Prepared.
Feeling comfortable with the plans after completing the model I then
ordered all the timber and fibreglass.
I am using the WEST SYSTEM mainly because a friend had recently built a large
sail boat and recommended it.
First job was to clean the shed and make space for the new boat.
Lofting panels.
Lofting the plans proved to be an enjoyable task, I used a long piece of
thin aluminium to draw all my curves and
they seemed to turn out okay.
Joining Panels and Stringers.
Next step was to join all the panels together, the biggest problem here
was ensure the surfaces lined up exactly,
the slightest bow in the timber or floor and an edge would be sticking up. I
ended up have to clamp or weigh down
every edge.
Making the Jig.
I had always regarded this as one of the most important stages of
building this boat, if I stuffed this up then
the boat wouldn't be so good. However with the use of string lines and a good
tape measure everything
seemed to fit and ended up nice and square. Ended up being quite simple to put
together.
Panels onto Jig.
The moment when it actually starts to look like a boat. Stitching
the panel over the jig was quite easy
after a few problems getting the panels to stay in line. Getting the bottom
panels to stay in line when stitched together
was just about impossible until I put a bevel on the inner edge of each panel,
it was a piece of cake after that.
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Bottom panels stitched. |
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Bevel on bottom Panels. |
Panels onto Bow mould |
Stitches removed. |
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Glassing the Hull
Once I had completed gluing the panels and then sanding it all smooth it was
time to start fibre glassing. First I had to run
one layer around the chine and two layers over the keel and transom. My first
attempt proved a bit of a failure, I did not
round the corners off enough and I was unable to get rid of the air under the
tape. After letting it set, sanding it off and
then rounding the corners properly it was a breeze. The plans say to ensure a
min radius of 13mm I think, should have
read the plans better.
Taping the Chines |
Taped transom |
Taped bow |
Ready for matting |
Matting on. |
Fairing
After completing the fibreglass for the hull the plans
were to fair everything before adding the upper panels and spray rails, all plans are
meant to change. After covering the hull in fairing compound and giving it a
good sand I decided that I was doing a lot
more work than needed. For example, I was trying to get the chine nice and
fair but realised the spray rails would
cover that anyway. Also the side panels were a bit flimsy still. So I decided to
add the spray rails and upper side panels before going any further.
Fairing compound on. |
Sanded. |
Upper panels on. |
Spray rails on. |
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Spray Rails, Strakes and Rub Rail.
I spent quite a bit of time tapering the spray rails so they blend in nicely
with the bow and am very pleased with the results.
I covered the spray rail with dynel for protection, although it soaks up more
epoxy than light fibreglass it will bond around sharp corners
without leaving air.
I then decided to fit the strakes and rub rail, I used Dynel on the strakes for
the reasons as above but covered the entire upper panel
and rub rail in a lighter fibreglass. If you do not have any sharp corners
to go around light fibreglass is a lot easier to wet out than Dynel.
Droopy Bow. 8th Sept
2006
Well I used the bow mould and the tips of the upper panels were tied down to the
tip of the bow mould, but I still ended up with
a droopy bow. Surely the plans need to be adjusted, two other builder had a
droopy bow so something must be up. Anyway I
was not concerned about it, in fact I don't mind the look on JimW"s C19, to be
honest I forgot about it until I was looking at the photo below.
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I turned the photo upside down
to see how it would look when right side up and decided it was too droopy.
So now I have decided to fix it up a bit, I hope I don't regret it. |
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Well I fixed it I hope, didn't take all that much effort,
great stuff this epoxy.
More sanding and fairing to do now.
Priming & Painting
8th Nov.2006
Fairing and prep for painting took a lot of work, sanding,
re-fairing, then priming, re-fairing sanding and priming. Happy to say that
I have completed priming the Hull and she is now ready to undercoat and finish.
I am using International 2 part paint, costs heaps but hopefully
will be worth it. Finding a run of 4-5 days that I have time to paint is proving
a bit of a problem, hopefully next week. Also the bit of rain around
prevented me from painting. I have purchased a trailer for when I turn the hull,
which should be soon I hope.
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Primed Hull |
Trailer waiting for hull |
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Go to Page 2
Will hopefully have it painted soon.
Contact details: Mark Coombe
mark@outbackpics.com
